Seattle by Pamela Sitt

Is there anything more romantic than raindrops spattering against a window pane, a good bottle of wine, and two glasses? Or how about: "Let's get you out of those wet clothes" This is the stuff of romance novels, right? And, hey, Seattle is known as a literary town. Smart is sexy, we say, and so is Seattle--maybe not in that flashy, Girls-Gone-Wild way, but remember what happens when the prim librarian takes off her bulky sweater.

Don't be fooled by the gloomy climate. Seattle will woo you with fresh oysters (nature's aphrodisiac!), winery tours, and panoramic views of mountains meeting water. The Emerald City sparkles on a clear day, and any warm night is unbeatable in a town that truly appreciates good weather. "It is so nasty most of the year that people just want to stay in and nest, but as soon as the sun comes out, everybody wants to take off all their clothes," says local bartender Sky Shepard. "The results of both types of weather are pretty much the same."

Keep your pants on, Casanova. This is about romance. A little foreplay would be nice. (It is rumored that Casanova consumed more than 40 raw oysters a day. We're just saying.) How about some music to get you in the mood? Seattle may have invented grunge, but thankfully the '90s are over--there's nothing unsexier than flannel. From June to August, the city sheds its winter plaid at dreamy Summer Nights at the Pier, where the likes of Chris Isaak and Carole King perform on an outdoor stage at sunset against a breathtaking backdrop of the Olympic Mountains and Elliott Bay. You can drink in the same delicious view from any number of restaurants--Elliott's Oyster House, mmm--along the waterfront or in Pike Place Market. During cocktails on the terrace at the Pink Door, you might catch a lightning storm coming in over the mountains. If that feels too touristy, head to the Eastlake neighborhood, home to rows of houseboats along Lake Union, and Pete's Super-market, which has an extensive collection of fine wines. Serafina, just a few blocks away, offers live jazz, decadent desserts, and a reputation as one of most romantic spots in Seattle. (No oysters, though.)

There are little hideaways in every city, but Seattle offers a chance for true, impulsive-as-you-wanna-be escape: hop a ferry at Pier 50 or 52 almost any hour, day or night, to any number of nearby islands. Steal away for a leisurely brunch on beautiful Bainbridge Island, or spend a long weekend whale-watching and beach-combing on the San Juan Islands. Bainbridge, San Juan, Whidbey, and Orcas islands are full of intimate bed-and-breakfasts (or boat-and-breakfasts, if you prefer), charming villages, and natural wonders to hike, camp, and explore. Bill Gates may have helped put Seattle on the map, but there's a reason Microsoft isn't headquartered outside Boston. This is a city that doesn't need to take its glasses off in order to steam up yours.

MEET in the Green Lake neighborhood, because you can't not meet someone while walking around Green Lake, and there are dogs (dating gold), and toned, sweaty bodies. Or at Starbucks, because there are so damn many of them, and it's sooo Seattle to meet over coffee.

FIGHT at Pike Place Market: You won't see any of the tourists again, so it's okay to get a bit hysterical. Someone might even videotape it, who knows? Crazy tourists.

HIDE & SULK inside the main branch of the Seattle Public Library. You can lose yourself in the art and literature of this architectural masterpiece. Seriously, you need a map in there. It's really big.

MAKE UP at the Herbfarm in Woodinville. Set in a fairy-tale cottage, the world-renowned restaurant offers splendid Northwest wines, seasonal theme dinners, walking garden tours, and a classical guitarist. Romance is heavy on the menu. [But do they serve oysters? --Ed.] It costs a small fortune, but hey, if the fight was worth having, so's a five-hour, nine-course reconciliation.

HAVE DARING SEX with a panoramic view of the city in the Columbia Tower Club women's bathroom on the 76th floor of the Bank of America Tower. It's about as close to the Mile-High Club as you can get without being airborne.

WHO ELSE: Bill and Melinda Gates (news of their 1993 engagement was "the fastest email ever at Microsoft," according to one employee); Kurt Cobain and Courtney Love; Nancy Wilson and Cameron Crowe (married on Capitol Hill in 1986, the former Heart rocker wore the pearls her mother wore at her wedding); Tom Hanks and Meg Ryan, sleeplessly.

SCENE TO MATCH (From Crowe's Say Anything, 1989.) John Cusack. A boom box. "In Your Eyes." Excuse us while we swoon.

ONLY IN SEATTLE CAN YOU... make out at the top of what is probably the most phallic landmark ever--the Space Needle.